Ralph Lauren’s latest runway look is getting attention for a reason that has little to do with the gown itself.
The American fashion house unveiled its Spring 2027 collection during New York Fashion Week, with one deep pink evening gown drawing particular attention online. The heavily embroidered dress has now become the centre of criticism, with people accusing the brand of using Indian craftsmanship without acknowledging where the embroidery comes from. Fashion designer Prakhar Rao Singh Chandel highlighted the issue in an Instagram post, pointing out that zardozi is a recognised traditional craft in the Lucknow region. He noted that the Lucknow zardozi cluster covers several districts and supports a large community of artisans. His criticism was less about a fashion brand using an old craft and more about what happens when the craft is used without naming or acknowledging the people and culture behind it. A few comments were much more blunt, accusing the fashion industry of repeatedly taking inspiration from Indian culture without giving credit to the communities that have preserved these techniques for generations. The backlash also comes amid previous criticism of Ralph Lauren over designs that appeared to draw from Indian clothing and accessories.
In August 2026, the brand was criticised online after a pre-draped saree-style garment appeared on its European website under the name “Botanical Embellished Draped Overlay Maxi Dress”, with a price tag of €198. For Indian designers, artisans and craft communities, the issue goes beyond whether a global fashion house can take inspiration from traditional techniques. It is about credit, visibility and who gets recognised when centuries-old craftsmanship appears on a major international runway.